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Clunker Tips and Tricks
The parts
shown above turn a bomber into a geared hybrid. But there are
still some items you need to get it all sorted.
This is
the round aluminum stock used for seatposts. It is 13/16"
2024 - NOT some metric equivalent. To mate to a Brooks saddle
it will need a shim. A good shim to use is a Wald stem or seatpost
shim that's still available. MemoryLane
has them. Cut it in half.
This is
the Wald shim to use.
If you're
using motorcycle levers you'll find that the end barrel on the
brake cable is too small if you aren't using motorcycle cables
and housing. I'm too lazy to go to the MC shop so I shim the barrel
of a regular bike brake cable. I found some tubing at Ace hardware,
slip one inside the other to get the thickness and cut to length,
then slot to accept the cable.
I you don't shim the barrel it will pull into the slot and cause
brake failure. The lever gives up easily, so don't try it.
It is hard
to find a front derailleur to fit the seatpost on a Schwinn, let
alone a Suntour. It will need a shim. Many bike shops have a box
full of junk with something or you can get a Huret shim off ebay
and have them mail it to you.
All of the
shims; The handlebar shims are 7/8 - 1" shims from Problem
Solvers part #sm 3002.
These are
the items you can really use on a hybrid and they're all from
MemoryLane.
I see a
lot of brakes on ebay being referred to as Atom brakes but they
are actually knockoffs made on the patent. (Brevette)
Arai and Grimeca among others. None approach the quality of the
Atom. These are some hard to find Atom 36h hubs (105 holes) that
came off a Schwinn Town and Country tandem. Spoke washers are
a good idea.
Some of
you will want to embark on the quest for the Holy Grail of drum
brakes, the Union drum brake This is what it looks like.
The only source that I know of is the 60/70s' Schwinn Town and
Country Tandem, some came with just the rear, others with front
too. Worry about the cones.
Thumbshifters
come in all states of decomposition. The Suntour mighty shifter
is what I'm referring to. It was a right side only shifter intended
for use on one of the Schwinn models. I ended up with
some mounting bases but found some downtube friction shifters
(right and left) on ebay. They were cheap enough I got two and
took the right sides to make a set of 'mighty shifters' using
the bases I had.
The Tange
bicycle motocross headset is the one to use.
For a quality
pedal the Suntour XC and the later XCII were what we had. XC around
79 and the XCII a year or two later. The earlier rectangular pedal
hurt your foot, the later hurt your shin, a lot!
Threads are 9/16 and it is hard to get the TA cranks in other
than French metric...SO take the French cranks to your bike shop
and have them chase the threads with a 9/16 tap...VOILA !! That's
all it takes.
Suntour
and Maeda (same) originally had 5 speed clusters, then 6 and then
Shimano came up with the Hyperdrive with a wider chain. If you're
a Shimano guy I can't help you. But if all you can find is the
Suntour 5 speed cogs don't worry, all the 6th cog added to the
equation was a 13t top gear, instead of 14. We actually used it.
Shimano
and Tange made BB adapters along with YST. Available from YST
these days is the sealed bearing version which features easy chain
alignment and foolproof bearings. For TA cranks the 127s work.
In 1979
we finally got some aluminum rims and they were the Araya 7x.
They came in these trashy colors which I hated but used. Now and
then I find some in silver anno which I prefer. Many colored rims
are cheap because their anno is faded, but straight. An anno shop
will strip the old color off for pretty cheap and give you silver
ones back. Which I prefer.
Contact
me at: RepackPioneer@aol.com